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Lenzspitze: Popular 38 Four Thousand Meter Peaks

The Lenzspitze, standing at the height of 4294 meters, is a mountain in the Pennine Alps in Switzerland. It  belongs to the Mischabel group and is the remotest summit of the Nadelgrat, a high ridge running north-south and located to the north of the Dom. The Lenzpitze is the fourth summit of the Mischabel chain and is one of the most famous summit of the Valais due to its shape, a perfect three edged pyramid with sharp ridges and steep slants. It lies just North from the Dom, with a beautiful wall just above the Lenzjoch ridges. It seems a twin of the Nadelhorn, to North, and as it, its summit rises in the joining point of three marked ridges, the North-West comes from the Nadelhorn rocky and regular but often covered by snow, the East-North-East runs from Saas Fee in the Saastal and here you can find the Mischabel hut and is the most exposed ridge of the three. The South comes from the Dom, and it is quite a difficult part in the beginning, but from Dom to the Lenzjoch it becomes easier in the end part to the Lenzspitze even if it gains steepness.


The name “Lenz” means spring because in early year, seen from Saas-Fee, the sun sets almost exactly behind the Lenzspitze. The first ascent was made by Clinton Thomas Dent in 1870 together with the mountain guide Alexander Burgener and the porter Franz Burgener, following the north-east face to the Nadeljoch and the north-west ridge to the summit. This route is hardly used nowadays. The first ascent of the east-north-east ridge, which starts at the Mischabel hut, was made by William Woodman goodman on August 3rd 1882, with the guides Ambros Supersaxo and Thodor Andenmatten. The north-east flank, an ice wall with an angle of up to 55 degrees was conquered on July 7th 1911 by Dietrich von Bethmann-Hollweg together with Oskar and Othmar Supersaxo by cutting steps.

Lenzspitze is usually reached from the South ridge, or the normal way with an easy but not so obvious route along the easiest ridge which is windy and exposed. North East face is very frequently climbed where the glacial environment and the inclination of the wall makes it a beautiful and binding ascent. The famous Mischabel Chain Great Traverse is on the East North East ridge with the Dom Lenzpitze and Lenzpitze Nadelhorn is at. It is a remarkable traverse from the Taschhorn to the Brodier hut. The route to the summit is very difficult requiring good technical actions and good equipments.